The Cliff Notes: Dark cherry ester and smoke first deliver full throttle game and earth to your nose before exploding your palate in a highly structural torrent of red fruit, spice, and caramel. You and these bottles may be here for awhile.

The Story: As usual, my block from Anderson Family once again rises to the pinnacle of structure out of the cellar. The venerable college professor that I often envision when tasting this wine has come back from sabbatical with hulking shoulders and six-pack abs. What the hell happened to academia? Damn, now I understand, in no uncertain terms, why there are co-eds and no empty chairs at the front of the class.

Cases Produced: 124

The Building of: Small-lot wild yeast fermentations, 100% barrel aged for 18 months in French oak barrels (one new, one twice-filled, three neutral). Bottled unfined and unfiltered in March of 2008.

Ageability: Absolutely decant to get it air within its first three years. Well cellared, anticipate additional complexity during its first 10 years with a potential 12- to 20-year drinking horizon.

Alcohol: 13.75%

pH: 3.67

Vineyards: The steep and rocky South Block of Anderson Family Vineyards is dry- farmed 16-year-old Dijon 115 clone Pinot noir. The site naturally sets some of the smallest berries and clusters in the state and the heat brings them to us with great concentration of flavor. Oh, and some structure.