Some were on their game with nimble and moving wines. Many were not. 2007 was a temperamental growing year with cooler temperatures and an absolute requirement to limit yield and to pay attention in the vineyard. Those that did — and expressed the ascendancy of beauty over power in the cellar — produced ballerinas. The rest were stuffed shirts in grey raincoats.

2007 Glass Willamette Valley White Pinot Noir
The crystalline peach color fronting a nose of crisp citrus, floral and musk melon hides the truth of this wine: Screeching Acidity. An overwhelming taste of lemon-lime, sea salt, grapefruit and tangerine goes on and on. Light front-of-mouth tannins help it to finish like icing on a lemon pound cake.445 cases. $20. Sold out.

2007 Provocateur Pinot Noir
Provocateur is French for troublemaker. The picture is my grandpa. The leaning is/was/will be decidedly more Pied Piper than antagonist. The color is ruby, with a nose of cherry, black pepper and coffee and in a little time, a just-unwrapped Brach’s caramel. The bright and serious palate reveals cherry, raspberry and watermelon jolly rancher, and its lip-tingling structure moves on your tongue as through a broad flat pipe, filling the lower half of your mouth while floating a more ethereal layer on top. Then it lingers. Drink now to five years and think about getting it some air in the first three. 968 cases. $24. Sold out.